5 Hours, 1 Toddler, and a Whole Lot of Aloha

Kauai was the kind of trip that lives somewhere between chaos and coconut trees. We booked it as a babymoon — one last adventure before Egan arrived — but with a toddler in tow, it became something else entirely: a reminder that family travel isn’t about relaxing. It’s about bonding in the mess, laughing when you’d rather cry, and finding wonder in places your stroller barely fits.

The Flight: Five Hours in the Sky (and in Survival Mode)

Let’s just say… flying to Kauai with a toddler is not for the faint of heart. Thankfully, my mom and brother were with us, which meant we had a solid rotation of grown-ups taking turns entertaining Clementine. Sticker books, magnet games, and her little pink headphones with a preloaded iPad? Absolute lifesavers.

But no matter how much you prepare — no matter how many activities, snacks, or backup onesies you pack — there’s always the unexpected. Like learning how to change a poopy diaper in an airplane bathroom while turbulence tests your core strength. Or managing the full-body glares from other passengers during a midair meltdown (hers, not mine — barely).

We had snacks and more snacks, lollipops at the ready like tiny emotional bribes. It was the longest five hours of my life. But we survived. And honestly? I’d do it again — preferably with stronger coffee and zero expectations.

Where We Stayed: Salt Air, Swimsuits, and No A/C

We stayed in the dreamiest little Airbnb — a cluster of condo-style rentals tucked right across the street from the ocean. It wasn’t fancy, but it was beautiful in that barefoot, salty-hair kind of way. We rented a car and made our way up to the north side of the island — a must if you’re someone who loves nature, lush views, and feeling like you’re tucked away in your own corner of the world.

The drive from the airport was long (there’s only a two-lane highway to get you there), but once we arrived, it was worth every twist and turn. The only real downside? No air conditioning. We basically lived in swimsuits, and cold fruit became our love language.

Oh — and right next to our Airbnb was the trailhead for an amazing “Instagram-worthy” hike. But more on that later.

What We Ate: Cold Fruit, Shaved Ice & Everything in Between

If you ask me what made this trip unforgettable, the food is high on the list — right up there with ocean views and toddler tantrums.

Every meal felt like an event. From food trucks to beachside cafés, we tasted our way across the island one bite at a time. We ate cold fruit daily (those local farmer’s markets are amazing), devoured plate lunches that hit like comfort food in paradise, and hunted down shaved ice stands like it was a competitive sport.

I’m not saying the food saved us — but after surviving a 5-hour flight with a toddler, it certainly helped.

Here are a few of our absolute favorites (feel free to copy/paste this list into your Notes app if you’re heading to Kauai soon):

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Our Favorite Kauai Eats

• [Nourish Hanalei] – Açaí bowls so good I nearly cried.

• [Sushigirl Kauai] – Amazing sushi- even some that was cooked so I could enjoy it (since I was pregnant at the time)

• [Saenz Ohana Breakfast] – The most delicious breakfast burritos (get there early! it gets busy, busy, busy).

• [Duane's Ono-Char Burger] – A gem on the side of the road with some of the most amazing burgers - (try the Local Boy Burger, its my favorite!)

• [Kilauea Fish Market] - The grilled Ono Tacos are AMAZING. You can't go wrong here.

• [Wishing Well Shaved Ice] – The toppings made this place - so many good flavors.

Food in Kauai wasn’t just a highlight — it was the itinerary. And with family in tow, it felt like the perfect mix of indulgence, exploration, and keeping the toddler (mostly) happy.

🌴 Things to Do on Kauai (with One Wild Toddler in Tow)

Here’s the thing about Kauai: it’s stunning, yes — but also full of moments where you’re questioning your life choices while wrestling a toddler and a melting shave ice. These are the places we actually loved.

🏖 North Shore Beaches We’d 100% Do Again

These were toddler-tested and mom-approved:

• Hanalei Bay – Huge stretch of soft sand, shallow shoreline, and mellow waves in the summer. Clementine could run, dig, splash, and just be a kid — and I wasn’t constantly panicking. Win.

• Anini Beach – Probably the calmest beach on the island thanks to the reef. There’s plenty of shade (hello, nap spot), and the water stays shallow for ages. We both relaxed here, which says a lot.

• Ke’e Beach – This one’s at the end of the road, literally. You need a reservation, and it’s kind of a trek — but the views? Unreal. There’s a reef-protected area that worked well for Clementine when the tide was right. If we ever go back, I’ll plan this one better.

🌺 Luau Night

I wasn’t sure how she’d do at a luau, but honestly? She was enthralled. The hula, the music, the fire dancing — she was glued. And I got to eat a full plate of food while she watched, which felt like a small miracle.

We chose to attend the Luau Kalamaku. It was a fun time and there was space for Clementine to run around. The food was decent and they have a train you can reserve in advance (plan ahead!) that goes around the property. While we enjoyed it, I’d probably want to try the Luau at the Sheraton (which is on the beach) next time.

☕ Kauai Coffee Co.

Yes, I took my toddler to a coffee farm. And yes, it was surprisingly one of our chillest stops. They have open space for little legs to run, treats for the kids, and free samples for the tired moms. Highly recommend.

🍍 Farmers Market Finds

We hit a few pop-up markets and they were such a sweet surprise. Fresh fruit, local snacks, and Clementine got to pick out her own fruit while I impulse-bought banana bread I absolutely didn’t need. No regrets.

🕉 Hindu Monastery

This one was… a gamble. It’s peaceful and beautiful, but not super toddler-friendly. Clementine made it through about 20 minutes before she was over it. I’m still glad we went — but maybe save this one for older kids or a solo morning if you can swing it.

🚌 Hā‘ena State Park (aka Learn From Me)

You have to book ahead — parking or shuttle. I didn’t plan far enough in advance, so we took the shuttle, which means you only get a set window of time in the park. Still gorgeous, but I wished we had more freedom to stay longer. If we go again, I’ll absolutely snag parking permits ahead of time.

Queen’s Bath — Worth It, But Be Smart

This was one of those hikes that looks dreamy on Instagram — crystal-clear tide pools carved into lava rock, ocean crashing in the background — but let me tell you, it’s not just a casual stroll. My brother and I got up early and snuck out while Clementine was still asleep (thanks, Gigi!), and I did it pregnant… which should say something about the magic of this place and the level of caution it calls for.

The trail itself isn’t long, but it’s steep, slippery, and muddy — especially after rain. On the way down, we saw people hiking in flip-flops, no walking sticks, and little kids in sundresses slipping all over the place. Please don’t be those people. Wear shoes with grip, go slow, and use common sense.

We even found a little waterfall along the way that my brother checked out — I stayed safely back, playing it cautious with the baby belly.

The tide pools at the bottom really are stunning, and if you go during calm summer surf, you might catch a glimpse of turtles gliding through the water. But during high surf or winter months, this place turns dangerous fast. If the gate is locked or the waves are rough, don’t go. No photo is worth the risk.

What to Know Before You Go

• Go early: Parking is super limited and fills up fast. We went just after sunrise and had the trail mostly to ourselves.

• Footwear matters: Wear shoes with real grip. It’s muddy, uneven, and slippery.

• Bring a walking stick: Even just a sturdy stick you find near the trailhead — it makes a difference.

• Check surf conditions: If the ocean looks wild, skip it. This spot has strong currents and sudden waves.

• Watch your step: Roots, mud, and slippery rocks are part of the adventure — take your time.

• Respect closures: If the gate is locked or a warning sign is up, it’s for good reason.

• Don’t bring small kids: In our opinion, this isn’t the safest hike for littles — especially if it’s wet or crowded.

• Pack light but smart: Water, towel, maybe a snack — and leave the cute outfit for after.

Things That Didn’t Make the Highlight Reel

We had the beach days, the family memories, the muddy hikes… and then we had the airport meltdown.

On the way home, Clementine completely lost it — full tantrum in the security line. I was trying to keep it together when a TSA agent, without missing a beat, looked me dead in the eyes and said: “Ma’am… please remove the child.”

So we did what any parents would do: promised her ice cream, queued up movies, and prayed for grace at 30,000 feet.

Because sometimes survival is the only travel goal that matters.

Wrapping It Up

Traveling with kids isn’t always easy — it’s messy, loud, and full of snack negotiations — but it’s also where some of our best memories are made. Whether we’re revisiting old hometowns, soaking up salty air on a new coast, or doing slightly questionable hikes while pregnant (hi, Queen’s Bath), these trips remind me that adventure doesn’t stop when you become a parent… it just changes shape.

I hope some of these tips, stories, and favorite spots help make your own family adventures a little smoother — or at the very least, remind you that you’re not the only one who’s ever forgotten the sound machine.

Thanks for following along — and if you’re planning a trip, feel free to reach out. I love sharing what worked for us (and what didn’t), and I’d genuinely love to hear where you’re headed next.

📸 Follow along on Instagram @ashlee_kaila for more behind-the-scenes chaos and travel inspo

💬 Drop a comment below — whether you’ve done Queen’s Bath, have a favorite Kauai stop, or just want to say hi!

Here’s to making beautiful (and sometimes messy) memories — one packed suitcase at a time.